Turning Tool Sewing: Tips & Tricks [2024]

Crafting professional-grade seams efficiently is significantly improved through turning tool sewing, a technique vital for achieving clean finishes in projects ranging from couture garments to home decor. Fashion Institute Technology (FIT) often emphasizes the importance of a quality turning tool, especially when instructing students in advanced apparel construction. Fabric manipulation, particularly when working with delicate materials, requires selecting the correct size and shape of the turning tool to prevent damage. Clover offers a range of turning tools designed specifically for different fabric weights, enabling sewists to achieve flawless results. Learning expert techniques in turning tool sewing ensures edges are crisp, corners are sharp, and the overall quality of your finished sewing project is elevated.

The Art of Fabric Turning: Achieving Professional Finishes in Sewing

Fabric turning is a fundamental technique in sewing. It involves reversing fabric from the wrong side to the right side, creating clean, finished edges. It’s a skill that elevates the quality of your projects.

Defining Fabric Turning and Its Purpose

At its core, fabric turning is the process of sewing fabric pieces together with the wrong sides facing, then inverting the resulting form to expose the right side. This technique is vital for creating enclosed seams and polished edges.

The purposes of fabric turning are multifaceted:

• Creating Clean Edges: Hiding raw edges inside the seam allowance.
• Forming Shapes: Constructing items like collars, cuffs, and straps.
• Adding Durability: Reinforcing edges to prevent fraying.

The Significance of Impeccable Finishes

Achieving clean, professional-looking turned edges and corners is not merely aesthetic; it’s a hallmark of quality craftsmanship. It significantly impacts the overall appearance and durability of a sewn item.

Elevating Aesthetics

Crisp corners and smooth curves demonstrate attention to detail. They also elevate a handmade item to a professional standard. Well-executed turning enhances visual appeal.

Enhancing Durability

Enclosed seams protect raw edges, preventing fraying and extending the lifespan of the item. A clean finish improves the garment’s ability to withstand wear and tear.

Demonstrating Craftsmanship

Mastering the art of fabric turning showcases a sewer’s skill and dedication. It is a testament to their understanding of garment construction.

A Comprehensive Guide to Fabric Turning

This guide provides a comprehensive overview of fabric-turning techniques. It offers insights into essential tools, fabric considerations, and practical applications. We aim to equip you with the knowledge and skills to achieve flawless results.

Techniques for Success

We will explore techniques such as seam manipulation, clipping, notching, grading, and pressing. These methods are all vital to achieving smooth, professional finishes.

Essential Tools

This guide will introduce specialized tools like loop turners, point turners, and point pressers. You’ll learn how to use them to improve your fabric-turning efficiency and accuracy.

Fabric Considerations

We’ll discuss how different fabric types affect the turning process. Learn how to choose the right materials for optimal results.

Practical Applications

Finally, we’ll examine the practical applications of fabric turning in various sewing projects. This includes collars, cuffs, straps, bags, and more.

By mastering the art of fabric turning, you can elevate the quality and appearance of your sewing projects.

Mastering Core Techniques for Flawless Turning

Now that we understand the importance of fabric turning, it’s time to delve into the essential techniques that form the bedrock of this craft. These techniques are not merely steps; they are nuanced skills that, when mastered, unlock the potential for truly professional-looking finishes.

Turning Basics: Reversing Fabric with Precision

The fundamental concept of fabric turning is deceptively simple: reversing fabric from the wrong side to the right side through an opening. However, achieving a clean, crisp result requires careful attention to detail.

This includes managing seam allowances and manipulating the fabric strategically to avoid distortion or bunching. Mastering this basic reversal is the first step toward elevated sewing projects.

Seam Types and Turning: A Critical Relationship

The type of seam you choose significantly impacts the ease and final appearance of the turned edge. Straight seams are generally straightforward, while curved seams present a greater challenge.

Understanding how different seam types behave is crucial.

Manipulating Seams for Ease and Reduced Bulk

For example, on inward curves, easing the fabric can prevent puckering. This is achieved by gently stretching the inner layer of the curve as you sew.

Conversely, on outward curves, slightly shrinking the outer layer can prevent the seam from gaping. These subtle manipulations can dramatically improve the final result.

Seam Allowances: The Cornerstone of Success

Accurate and consistent seam allowances are paramount to successful fabric turning. A too-narrow seam allowance can lead to the fabric fraying or pulling out, while an excessively wide allowance creates unwanted bulk.

Finding the right balance is essential for achieving a smooth, professional finish.

Choosing the Right Seam Allowance

The appropriate seam allowance depends on several factors. This includes fabric type, project requirements, and the complexity of the design.

Lightweight fabrics typically require smaller seam allowances. Thicker fabrics often benefit from slightly larger allowances to accommodate the added bulk.

Experimentation and careful consideration are vital in determining the optimal seam allowance for each project.

Clipping and Notching: Precision Cuts for Perfect Curves

Clipping and notching are indispensable techniques for managing curved seams. These precision cuts relieve tension within the seam allowance, allowing the fabric to spread smoothly when turned.

Without these techniques, curved edges are likely to pucker or distort, undermining the overall quality of the project.

Step-by-Step Guide to Clipping and Notching

To clip, make small, perpendicular cuts into the seam allowance, stopping just short of the stitching line.

For outward curves, notch by cutting small wedges out of the seam allowance. The frequency and depth of the clips or notches will depend on the severity of the curve.

Clipping vs. Notching: Understanding the Difference

Clipping is used primarily on inward curves to allow the fabric to spread. Notching is used on outward curves to remove excess bulk. Knowing when to use each technique is crucial for achieving smooth, well-defined curves.

Grading and Layering Seams: Reducing Bulk for a Professional Finish

Grading, or layering, seams is another effective technique for reducing bulk within the seam allowance. This involves trimming each layer of the seam allowance to a different width. This helps to distribute the bulk more evenly and create a flatter, smoother finish.

Methods for Grading and Layering

A common method involves trimming the layer closest to the outer fabric to the narrowest width. Trim the subsequent layers progressively wider. This graduated approach minimizes bulk and allows the seam to lie flat.

Alternatively, you can trim the seam allowances diagonally, creating a tapered effect. Experiment with different methods to find the one that works best for your fabric and project.

Pressing and Ironing: Setting the Stage for Success

Pressing is not merely an afterthought; it’s an integral part of the fabric-turning process. Pressing seams open before turning helps to reduce bulk. Pressing after turning helps to set the shape and create crisp, well-defined edges.

Effective Pressing Techniques

Use a pressing cloth to protect delicate fabrics from scorching or shine. Apply steam judiciously to help mold the fabric and set the seams.

Pay particular attention to corners and curves. Use a point turner or other specialized tool to coax the fabric into a sharp, clean shape before pressing.

The Power of Steam

Steam can work wonders in fabric turning. It relaxes the fibers, allowing the fabric to mold more easily.

Use short bursts of steam, followed by a firm pressing action, to achieve optimal results. Allow the fabric to cool completely before handling it further to prevent wrinkles or distortion.

Essential Tools: Equipping Yourself for Efficient Turning

After mastering the core techniques, the next crucial step in achieving flawlessly turned fabric is selecting the right tools. While skilled hands are essential, the proper tools can significantly enhance efficiency and precision. This section explores specialized tools designed to streamline the turning process, ensuring professional results every time. We’ll delve into loop turners, point turners, and point pressers, examining their specific functions and outlining best practices for their optimal use.

Turning Tools: An Overview

The market offers a variety of tools to aid in fabric turning, each designed for specific tasks and fabric types. Some are general-purpose, while others are highly specialized. Understanding the purpose and proper application of each tool is critical for selecting the right one for your project. Investing in a few high-quality tools can significantly improve the ease and quality of your fabric turning endeavors. A well-equipped sewing kit should include at least a point turner, and potentially a loop turner depending on the types of projects undertaken.

Loop Turner: Turning Narrow Tubes with Ease

The loop turner is a game-changer when working with narrow tubes and straps. This tool features a long, slender shaft with a small hook or latch at the end. Its primary function is to grasp the fabric and pull it through itself, effectively turning the tube right-side out. Without a loop turner, this process can be incredibly frustrating, especially with delicate or tightly woven fabrics.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Using a Loop Turner

1. Insert the loop turner into the tube. Insert the loop turner into the tube with the hook or latch facing upwards. Work it through until the end of the turning tool is approximately 1/4 inch from the end of the fabric tube.

2. Secure the Fabric. Engage the hook or latch to grasp the fabric securely. Ensure a firm hold to prevent slippage during the turning process.

3. Carefully pull the loop turner. Gently pull the loop turner through the tube. This will start to invert the fabric.

4. Continue until fully turned. Continue to pull until the entire tube is turned right-side out. Work gently to prevent damage to delicate fabrics.

5. Press. Once the fabric is turned, use a pressing cloth to press the tube into a flat, smooth finish.

Point Turner: Achieving Crisp Corners and Smooth Curves

A point turner is an indispensable tool for achieving sharp, well-defined corners and smooth curves in turned fabric. These tools come in various shapes and sizes, but all share the same fundamental purpose: to gently push out the fabric from the inside, creating a crisp, clean edge. Point turners are essential for collars, cuffs, and any other project requiring precise corner detailing.

Best Practices for Using a Point Turner

• Use a gentle touch. Avoid excessive force, which can damage the fabric or distort the seams.

• Work from the inside. Insert the point turner into the seam allowance and gently push outwards.

• Avoid piercing the fabric. Be careful not to puncture or tear the fabric with the point of the turner. Use the tool to gently coax the fabric from the inside of the seam to get an exact point.

• Use the right size. Select a point turner that is appropriately sized for the fabric and the size of the corner or curve.

• Consider the material. Point turners are available in materials such as wood, plastic, and metal. Wood and plastic offer a softer touch. This is a good choice for more delicate fabrics.

Point Presser: Pressing Seams in Tight Spaces

The point presser is a specialized tool designed for pressing seams open in hard-to-reach areas, such as corners and curves. It typically consists of a long, narrow piece of wood or heat-resistant material with a pointed or rounded end. The point presser allows you to apply targeted heat and pressure without distorting the surrounding fabric.

Effective Use of a Point Presser

• Preheat the point presser. Using an iron, preheat the tip of the point presser to effectively set the seams.

• Protect the Fabric. Always use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric from direct heat and prevent scorching.

• Focus on the seam. Insert the point of the presser into the seam allowance and apply pressure with the iron.

• Cool before handling. Allow the fabric to cool completely before handling to prevent wrinkles or distortion.

• Test on scrap fabric first. Before using a point presser on your project, test it on a scrap piece of the same fabric to ensure the heat setting is appropriate and won’t cause damage.

Fabric and Material Considerations for Optimal Turning

Successfully turning fabric hinges not only on technique but also on understanding how different materials respond to the process. The choice of fabric significantly impacts the ease and quality of the final result. Certain fabrics lend themselves more readily to turning, while others require specific handling and stabilization. This section delves into the characteristics of various materials and how to manipulate them for optimal turning outcomes.

The Lure of Lightweight Fabrics

Lightweight fabrics are often favored for projects involving intricate turning due to their inherent pliability. Their reduced bulk and flexibility allow for smoother manipulation through tight curves and corners. The ease with which they conform to new shapes minimizes stress on seams, reducing the risk of distortion or puckering.

Think of turning a delicate silk scarf versus a heavy wool coat. The former glides through the process almost effortlessly, while the latter demands significantly more precision and effort. This difference highlights the importance of fabric weight in relation to turning ease.

Examples of Lightweight Fabrics for Turning

Consider these options for projects where ease of turning is paramount:

• Silk Charmeuse: Offers a beautiful drape and exceptional smoothness, ideal for linings and delicate accessories.

• Cotton Lawn: A finely woven cotton with a crisp hand, suitable for lightweight garments and quilting projects.

• Rayon/Viscose: Known for its soft texture and fluid drape, it works well for garments requiring a flowing silhouette.

• Linen (Lightweight): Though prone to wrinkling, lightweight linen provides a natural texture and breathable quality, perfect for summer apparel.

These examples offer diverse options, each with its unique characteristics, while sharing the common trait of being easier to manipulate when turning.

The Strategic Use of Fusible Interfacing

While lightweight fabrics offer inherent advantages, situations arise where a more structured form is desired, or when working with fabrics that lack sufficient body. This is where fusible interfacing becomes an invaluable tool. Fusible interfacing adds stability and structure to garment components, making turning easier and more precise, and preventing unwanted stretching or distortion.

It acts as an internal skeleton, providing support without adding excessive bulk. By carefully selecting the appropriate weight and type of interfacing, you can significantly enhance the turning process and the overall quality of your project.

Selecting the Right Weight and Type

Choosing the correct interfacing requires careful consideration of the base fabric and the desired outcome. A general rule of thumb is to match the weight of the interfacing to the weight of the fabric. Using an overly heavy interfacing on a lightweight fabric will create stiffness and detract from the garment’s drape.

Similarly, using too light of an interfacing on a heavier fabric will provide insufficient support.

Consider these factors when selecting fusible interfacing:

• Weight: Choose a weight that complements the base fabric, providing structure without compromising drape.

• Type: Woven interfacings offer more stability and are suitable for structured garments, while non-woven interfacings provide a softer hand and are ideal for lighter fabrics.

• Color: Select an interfacing color that closely matches the base fabric to prevent show-through, especially with lighter-colored materials.

Application Techniques for Optimal Results

Proper application is crucial to maximizing the benefits of fusible interfacing. Follow these guidelines for a secure and professional bond:

1. Pre-Shrink: Pre-shrink both the interfacing and the fabric to prevent puckering after fusing.
2. Cut Accurately: Cut the interfacing precisely to match the pattern piece, paying attention to seam allowances.
3. Fuse Correctly: Use a dry iron set to the appropriate temperature for the interfacing type. Press firmly for the recommended time, working in sections. Use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric from scorching.
4. Cool Completely: Allow the fused pieces to cool completely before handling to ensure a strong and lasting bond.

By carefully selecting and applying fusible interfacing, you can transform even challenging fabrics into easily manageable components for turning and other sewing techniques.

Applications: Turning Techniques in Garment Construction and Projects

Successfully turning fabric hinges not only on technique but also on understanding how different materials respond to the process. The choice of fabric significantly impacts the ease and quality of the final result. Certain fabrics lend themselves more readily to turning, while others require specific approaches. Mastering fabric turning unlocks a world of possibilities in garment construction and various sewing projects. Let’s delve into the practical applications of these techniques.

Collars: Achieving Sharpness and Smoothness

Turning collars requires finesse to achieve those coveted crisp points and smooth curves.

The key lies in precise seam allowances and careful clipping. Grade the seam allowance strategically, removing more fabric from the upper collar layer to reduce bulk.

Use a point turner to gently coax the corners out, being careful not to pierce the fabric. A point presser can then be used to flatten the seam and create a sharp, professional edge.

Cuffs: Polished Finishes for Sleeves

Cuffs demand a polished, professional look, which turning techniques can readily deliver.

Pay close attention to the corners, treating them similarly to collar points. Consider using a slightly lighter weight interfacing in the cuff to minimize bulk and aid in turning.

After turning, a thorough pressing is essential to set the shape and create a clean, well-defined edge.

Straps: Turning Narrow Tubes with Ease

Creating straps, especially narrow ones, can be challenging, but using a loop turner simplifies the process considerably.

The loop turner provides a mechanical advantage, pulling the fabric through the tube with relative ease. Ensure the seam allowance is consistent to prevent bunching or unevenness.

For very narrow straps, consider using a fine, strong thread to avoid breakage during the turning process.

Belts: Durable and Well-Turned

Belts require both durability and a clean finish, making proper turning techniques crucial.

Reinforce the seam allowances with a second row of stitching for added strength.

Depending on the belt’s width, a loop turner or a point turner may be the best tool for turning. Choose a fabric that can withstand wear and tear, such as canvas or denim.

Facings: Neatly Finished Edges

Turning is integral to achieving neatly finished edges with facings.

Accurate pattern matching is essential to ensure a seamless transition between the facing and the garment.

Understitching the facing to the seam allowance helps it stay in place and prevents it from rolling to the right side.

Pillows: Sharp Corners and Professional Appeal

Creating professional-looking pillows often hinges on achieving sharp, well-defined corners.

Clip the corners diagonally, getting as close to the stitching as possible without cutting through it. Use a point turner to gently push out the corners, creating a crisp, clean edge.

A well-pressed finish is the final touch that elevates the pillow’s appearance.

Bags: Navigating Multiple Layers

Bag construction often involves multiple layers of fabric, which can make turning more challenging.

Grading the seam allowances is critical to reduce bulk. Consider using a thinner interfacing or omitting it altogether in areas that will be turned.

Take your time and use a sturdy point turner to work through the multiple layers. A walking foot on your sewing machine can help prevent the fabric from shifting during the initial construction.

Pattern Making Considerations for Easier Turning

Successfully turning fabric hinges not only on technique but also on understanding how different materials respond to the process. The choice of fabric significantly impacts the ease and quality of the final result. Certain fabrics lend themselves more readily to turning, while others present unique challenges that need to be navigated. However, before even touching the fabric, the pattern itself can be modified to drastically ease the process of turning.

The Foundation: Pattern Shape Adjustments

The fundamental shape of your pattern pieces plays a crucial role in how easily and cleanly you can turn fabric. Sharp, acute angles are notoriously difficult to manage, often resulting in bulky corners or puckered seams. Consider rounding off these sharp corners slightly to create a gentler curve, which allows the fabric to distribute more evenly when turned.

This slight rounding doesn’t drastically alter the overall design, but makes a world of difference. For designs with tight internal curves, widening the curve, even by a fraction of an inch, can improve the fabric’s ability to be turned smoothly.

Seam Allowances: A Delicate Balance

Seam allowances directly impact the bulk and structure of turned edges. While a generous seam allowance might seem like it offers more fabric to work with, it can actually create unnecessary bulk, particularly in thicker fabrics. Experiment with reducing seam allowances, especially in areas that will be turned.

However, proceed with caution. Too small a seam allowance can compromise the seam’s integrity. A happy medium, often around 1/4 inch, can provide sufficient stability without adding excessive bulk.

Grading and layering the seam allowance within this amount is essential to reduce thickness.

Corner Designs: Mitering for Success

Corner design is critical. Mitering, or diagonally trimming the corner of the seam allowance, is a fundamental technique for reducing bulk and achieving a sharp, clean corner when turned.

Accurate mitering removes excess fabric, allowing the corner to lie flat without distortion. The angle of the miter cut should correspond to the angle of the corner itself. Sharper corners require a more aggressive miter.

Alternative methods include creating a small "dart" at the corner.

This involves stitching a tiny diagonal line across the corner, essentially removing a small triangle of fabric. This achieves a similar effect to mitering but can provide more control in certain situations.

Adding Fabric: The "Easing" Technique

Sometimes, the key to a smooth turn lies in adding extra fabric, particularly in tight corners or along sharply curved edges. This might seem counterintuitive, but a small amount of extra fabric, strategically placed, allows the fabric to "ease" into the correct position when turned, preventing puckering and distortion.

This technique is especially useful in situations where the fabric has limited stretch or where the design requires a very precise, defined edge.

The amount of extra fabric needed is typically minimal, often just a scant 1/8 inch. It’s best to experiment with scraps to determine the optimal amount for your specific fabric and design. Adding too much can create unwanted fullness.

Pattern Marking: Precision Is Key

Accurate pattern marking is crucial for ensuring that all seams are sewn correctly and that the finished piece turns out as intended. Use a reliable marking tool that won’t damage the fabric or fade over time.

Transfer all pattern markings accurately, including seam lines, dart locations, and any other relevant information. Accurate marking ensures that all design elements align properly, and that turning and finishing are completed accurately.

Clear and precise markings are essential for achieving professional results.

Pattern making, then, is not merely about creating the initial shape of a garment; it is about anticipating the challenges that will arise during the construction process and proactively addressing them through thoughtful design choices.

Thread Selection for Durability and Appearance

Successfully turning fabric hinges not only on technique but also on understanding how different materials respond to the process. As fundamental as the fabric itself is the thread used to sew the seams. The right thread choice can significantly impact the durability, appearance, and overall success of fabric turning, while the wrong choice can lead to seam failure or unsightly finishes.

Therefore, selecting the appropriate thread requires careful consideration of several factors. This includes thread weight, fiber composition, and color. Ignoring these elements can compromise the integrity and aesthetic appeal of your project.

Understanding Thread Weight and its Impact

Thread weight refers to the thickness of the thread, typically indicated by a number. A lower number signifies a heavier, thicker thread, while a higher number indicates a finer, thinner thread.

The appropriate thread weight depends primarily on the weight of the fabric being used.

Using a heavy thread on delicate fabric can cause puckering or damage. Conversely, a fine thread on heavy fabric may lack the necessary strength.

As a general guideline:

• Lightweight fabrics (such as voile, chiffon, or lightweight cotton) pair well with finer threads (e.g., 50-60 weight).
• Medium-weight fabrics (such as quilting cotton, linen, or denim) are best suited for medium-weight threads (e.g., 40-50 weight).
• Heavyweight fabrics (such as canvas, upholstery fabric, or leather) require heavier threads (e.g., 30 weight or lower).

Thread Fiber and its Properties

The fiber content of thread influences its strength, elasticity, and suitability for different applications. Common thread fibers include cotton, polyester, and nylon, each with distinct characteristics.

• Cotton threads are natural, soft, and ideal for sewing natural fabrics like cotton and linen. However, they are less strong and abrasion-resistant than synthetic threads.

• Polyester threads are synthetic, strong, and resistant to stretching and shrinking. They are a versatile choice for a wide range of fabrics and projects.

• Nylon threads are extremely strong and durable, often used for heavy-duty applications like upholstery and outdoor gear.

• Specialty threads, such as silk or rayon, offer unique aesthetic qualities. Silk threads are lustrous and ideal for delicate fabrics, while rayon threads provide a decorative sheen.

Color Considerations for Seamless Sewing

Thread color plays a crucial role in achieving a professional-looking finish. Ideally, the thread color should closely match the fabric color to create invisible seams.

However, contrasting thread colors can be used intentionally for decorative purposes, such as topstitching or adding visual interest to a project.

When selecting thread color, it’s always best to test a small sample on a scrap of fabric to ensure a perfect match. Natural lighting often provides the most accurate representation of the true thread and fabric colors.

Recommended Thread Types

Here’s a breakdown of recommended thread types based on fabric weight and project type:

• For Lightweight Fabrics: Use a fine, all-purpose polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread. This ensures adequate seam strength without adding bulk to the delicate fabric.

• For Medium-Weight Fabrics: A good quality all-purpose polyester thread is a reliable choice. Cotton threads also work well, especially for quilting cottons.

• For Heavyweight Fabrics: Opt for a heavy-duty polyester or nylon thread designed for upholstery or canvas projects. These threads offer the strength and durability required for demanding applications.

• For Delicate or Decorative Projects: Consider using silk or rayon thread for its luxurious sheen and smooth finish. However, be mindful of its lower strength and abrasion resistance.

So, there you have it! Hopefully, these turning tool sewing tips and tricks will make your next project a breeze. Don’t be afraid to experiment and find what works best for you. Happy sewing!